JELADO Age of Longing Black Tag 407EXX Size 40(L)~44(XXL) Denim JKT【JP94407ED】

LAST RESORT DENIM - widely regarded as the greatest masterpiece in JELADO’s history - returns with an even wilder look and a stronger vintage character, this time marking our first-ever Type 1 Denim Jacket. Featuring our exclusive "Black Tag" stitched inside the pocket, this special 15-ounce denim was created through a completely fresh approach, building upon our meticulous process of disassembling and analyzing original XX deadstock denim to deliver a completely different profile than our White Tag line. All the definitive hallmarks of a classic Type 1 jacket are faithfully reproduced, including the single flap-pocket, single-sided tab, five-button front, inward-facing cuff buttons, and the rear cinch strap.

When distinguishing between early and late-period variations of the Type 1, the early versions are characterized by a pronged cinch buckle and front box pleat stitches that sit noticeably lower than the buttons. We have accurately captured these early-period traits by lowering the box stitching relative to the buttons and utilizing an authentic pronged buckle for the backstrap. This aligns perfectly with our vision for the Black Tag fabric, which was engineered specifically to recreate pre-1940s textiles. Furthermore, compared to a Type 2 jacket, the Type 1 features a wider gap between the collar tips and a silhouette that lays in a flat "T-shape" when spread out—details we have carefully integrated while ensuring a highly wearable modern fit.

Mirroring the construction of the original vintage piece in our personal archives, we tailored this jacket using size 20 thread for the chain-stitched wrap seams and size 30 thread for the lock-stitched seams. The hardware and trimmings are uncompromisingly robust, featuring a raw horsehide leather patch, a single-sided embroidered rayon tab, custom-plated iron buttons, and solid copper rivets. Due to fabric width limitations during production, sizes Large and above will feature the iconic split-back "T-Back" construction.

～LAST RESORT BLACK TAG～

Two years ago, to mark JELADO’s 15th anniversary, we staked the future of our company on the creation of LAST RESORT DENIM. We began by disassembling actual vintage deadstock jeans from that era. Collaborating with a specialized analysis laboratory, we mapped out every metric - from cotton fiber length, yarn thickness, and twist count, down to the exact fabric weave density - using data extracted from two different mid-century deadstock samples. Based on those precise figures, we selected the raw cotton, spun the yarn, and wove the fabric on 1950s looms to create the ultimate denim. Developing this fabric gave us a profound understanding of original XX denim's unique traits, yarn quality, and texture, as well as how it differs from modern denim.

Yet, within our mission to recreate the XX, there was one specific phase we intentionally left unaddressed until now: the color. To recreate the true color profile of vintage denim - along with the distinct texture produced when spinning technology was less advanced and yarn quality was inherently more irregular - we created the LAST RESORT Black Tag.

We used the exact same raw cotton blends as our White Tag denim (EMOT cotton for the warp; California Pima cotton for the weft). However, we specially modified the warp yarn to encourage more prominent nep formation, resulting in a much more pronounced slub texture. This intense texture allows for longer, more dramatic vertical fading lines (tate-ochi). Furthermore, looking closely at our target vintage specimens, the dullness and discoloration of the weft yarns were highly striking. The original cotton fibers appeared less like a pure white and more like a yellowed, unbleached ecru. To capture this depth of color, we meticulously adjusted the yarn composition before dyeing and weaving the fabric.

We also switched to a completely different dye house than the one used for the White Tag, resulting in an entirely distinct color profile. Because rope-dyeing tower heights and dye immersion sequences vary from one facility to another, the final color expression changes drastically.

This operational shift also altered the fabric weight, yielding a 15oz denim for the Black Tag compared to the 14oz White Tag. By intentionally darkening the indigo through an eight-dip rope-dyeing process, we achieved a deeper, more profound shade of blue. We selected this intensely textured, deep-indigo fabric specifically for our "LAST RESORT DENIM Black Tag" lineup to satisfy the demand for an even more authentic heritage aesthetic. Moving forward, this denim will be reserved exclusively for our pre-1940s style denim garments.

While it delivers a more rugged appearance and a stiffer initial touch, it transforms after just two days of wear. The denim relaxes into the same signature softness as the White Tag, shifting into a smooth, effortless, and stress-free fit that glides right on.

JP94407E-26SS

*Sizes 40(L) to 44(XXL) will feature a T-back design due to product specifications.