Vintage Jeans Glossary

What are vintage jeans?

There are various theories, but it refers to jeans that were released to the market between the 1870s and the 1960s.

Nowadays, jeans lovers have left behind a wealth of information in the form of books, documents, and digital materials, and they have also passed it on verbally from person to person, allowing us to gain knowledge.

However, we understand that not all of this information is necessarily true.

This is because jeans were made by hand one by one, and in a variety of factories.

Therefore, there are many cases where details differ between individual items.

This means that every pair of vintage jeans you own has a story.

That's why jeans are so interesting.

This vintage jeans glossary is merely one interpretation of vintage jeans by JELADO.

Please enjoy.

 

Terms (links to blog posts for each term)	image for interaction	Description
101J		The 1931J, which has been around since 101, comes in a western style. It is a one-pocket style and is more familiar as a COWBOY. The shape of the 1940J has remained unchanged since it became a two-pocket style in the 101s, and is a highly refined design. It is rumored that the 557XX (3rd), which was later released by LEVI'S, was made to imitate the 101J. The reason is that the 557XX and 101J are made similarly.
501XX		Since it was first given a lot number in 1890, it has become a timeless vintage classic that continued until around 196, while the design, fabric, silhouette, and sewing specifications have changed slightly over the years. The ultimate straight denim that any denim lover will want to wear at least once.
506XX		Commonly known as the 1st. The 1890st, which has existed since the 1923s, is characterized by a pocket on the left chest and a pin-stud cinch back on the back. It is said that the pockets became flap pockets around 28-1936, and in 2 the 1947st with a red tab invented by Chris Lucia appeared. During World War II, material restrictions were imposed. Although there were changes to the details during that period, the pin-stud buckle was used until 47. In 1952 it was changed to a slide buckle. It existed until XNUMX.
507XX		Commonly known as the 1952nd. Produced from 62 to 1. The biggest difference from the 1952st is that it has pockets on both sides and does not have a slider buckle on the back. It has buttons on both sides to adjust the width. As the 1st existed until 2, the 1955nd also has leather patches and single-sided tabs (the 62nd is basically double-sided tabs). Also, paper patches were adopted from the XNUMXnd. Paper patches from XNUMX to XNUMX that have the words EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED written on them are called guaranteed, and those without are called unguaranteed.
557XX		Commonly known as the 70505rd. It is very different from the XNUMXnd and is very stylish. Levi's has been selling jackets based on this XNUMXrd since XNUMX to the present. This model has been loved for many years and is also called the perfect jacket. The first models of this model had a guarantee. Since then, there have been no guarantees. Also, in recent years, the XNUMXrd has become as popular as the XNUMXst and XNUMXnd models and the price has risen.
66 モ デ ル		Jeans produced between 1973 and 80. Jeans made before the 66 model have a big capital "LEVI'S" E on the red tab. After 1973, the e in Levi's was changed to a small e. One of the major features of the 66 model is the small e. The 66 model is also divided into early and late models, with the early models being more popular and expensive. At the time, when you bought new jeans, the paper label called a flasher attached to the back pocket had "©1966" written on it, so it is called the 66 model. The silhouette and fabric have changed significantly from the XNUMXXX, and the jeans are a little slimmer and have a tapered hem, making them a neater denim. Due to the recent rapid rise in the prices of vintage denim, the value of the 66 model has increased dramatically.
70505		The 1967, which has been around since 70505, is based on the 557XX, although there are some changes to the details. The same can be said for the current model. The prices of the 557st, 1nd and 2rd models are currently rising, but the 3 model is likely to rise in price as well. From 70505 to 67, it was released with a BIG E, and from 70, it was released with a small e.
アーキュエイトステッチ		It is a bow-shaped stitch sewn into the back pocket of Levi's jeans, which was first made in 1873. This arcuate stitch has changed shape slightly over the years, so it can also be used to distinguish between different eras. Many other brands have imitated this stitch, and it was registered as a trademark in 1943.
Outseam		The outer seam of denim. Out (outside) seam (joint, stitching, seam).
Blue ear		Blue selvedge is found in Levi's No.2 denim and Lee's selvedge denim. There is a theory that Levi's has red selvedge and Lee has blue selvedge to distinguish between them.
赤タグ		This refers to the tag that was attached to Lee's 1940 series from the 101s.
Red tab / Red tab		It is a small red tag sewn to the left side of the right back pocket of Levi's jeans. The name and even the position of the tag are trademarked, and other companies' tags are more commonly called "pisnames." Incidentally, when the brand name is woven into the jeans, it is called a "big E" in capital letters, and a "small e" in lowercase, and it is also a standard for identifying the age of the item in the world of vintage clothing. Different models have orange tabs, white tabs, silver tabs, and so on. The material has changed from rayon to polyester over the years.
Red ears		This refers to the edges of denim fabric. They are called selvedge in English and are used to prevent fraying at the ends of denim fabric when it is woven on old looms. Levi's denim in particular has red selvedge marks on them, so they are commonly known as "red selvedge." This continued until it was discontinued in 1986 and is an essential detail when talking about VINTAGE.
Atari		This is a type of fading that is unique to denim, and is the colloquial term for the state in which the surface of the fabric is rubbed off by repeated wearing and washing, revealing the white fibers at the core of the thread. It can be seen in key places such as pocket openings and side seams, and gives a tasteful look that can only be found in well-worn jeans. For example, the line-like fading that appears when it hits the selvedge on the back is called "selvedge wear." Puckering is also a type of this.
Amoskeag		Before Levi's started using Cone Mills denim in 1915, Amos Keig was the company that supplied denim to Levi's. The denim fabric trade with Levi's ended in 1922. Amoskeag Manufacturing Company is located in Manchester, New Hampshire on the east coast of the United States. The region where Amoskeag is located is known as New England, where the first weaving mills in America were built, and Amoskeag fabrics were well known for their high quality by 1873. Amoskeag was incorporated in 1831, and was apparently producing denim by the mid-1860s.
Inseam		The inside seam of denim.
Indigo dye		Generally speaking, they can be divided into natural and synthetic indigo, but since the days when five-pocket jeans were made, I think that most are dyed with synthetic indigo. Synthetic indigo was a dye developed by German scientists in the late 1900s, and in the early XNUMXs, indigo dye was imported from Germany. With its beautiful blue color and beautiful fading, it is a unique dye for making jeans.
Waist Overalls		Refers to the original design of jeans Waist overalls are said to have been created by cutting the bib part of overalls, and they are a type of bottom that can be said to be the origin of the evolution of work pants fastened at the waist into jeans.
Waistband		The belt-like part around the waist is called the waistband. In the late 30s, the lower part of Levi's denim was sewn with a chain stitch, but the upper part remained single-stitched, and from the late 60s, the upper part was also chain-stitched.
Ounce		A unit of mass in the imperial system, with 1 ounce being approximately 28.3g, and is indicated by the symbol "oz." It is used to indicate the weight of the fabric in jeans, and refers to the weight of 1 square yard, not per pair of pants. 1 to 10 ounces are generally considered to be the weight, with heavy, thick denim being called "heavy ounce" and light, thin denim being called "light ounce."
hidden rivet		Hidden rivets were used from 1937 to 1966. After this, bar tacks were adopted and hidden rivets became a thing of history.
Cannuki		It was adopted as a replacement for hidden rivets. It is said to have the same strength as rivets by reinforcing the edges of the back pockets of jeans with thick thread. Also known as Bardock.
Yellow Tag		This tag was used on Lee's 1970 series around the 101s.
Gimme Book		A mini-book style warranty card that has been included with Wrangler jeans since 1954. Each gimme book has a story, and there are actually many collectors who are looking for gimme books.
With or without fee		Paper patches with the words "EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED" are called "guaranteed" and can be seen on the 1955XX, 62XX, and early 501XX from 507 to 557. Those without the words "EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED" date to around 62 to 66. For this reason, there are unguaranteed 557XX and 507XX (final period) as well.
Guarantee Ticket		This is a ticket that comes separately from the paper tag (thrasher) and indicates a quality guarantee. In the early 1890s, it was printed on the lining like today, and the first guarantee ticket was attached in 1892...
Chris Lucia		The inventor of the red tab. He conducted an unofficial survey of Levi's wearers at the rodeo venue, but was unable to identify who was wearing Levi's, so he came up with the idea of ​​the red tab as a mark. On September 1936, 9, he started using it on overalls.
Gripper Zipper		Zippers found from the mid-1950s to the mid-60s. Square zippers can be dated to the mid-50s if they have a pinlock, or the 60s if they have a camlock. There is also a type called a tapered zipper, which can be found up until the mid-60s.
black tag		Tag seen on Lee's 1950 series from around the 101s.
コインポケット		The coin pocket is said to have been used to hold pocket watches. Most models had rivets on both sides, which were abolished during World War II, but were revived after the war. Until the 60s, many pockets had selvedge. In the days before belt loops, coin pockets were sewn high.
コーンミルズ		One of America's leading denim mills. Having been a supplier to Levi's since 1915, the company is highly regarded among denim fans as a trusted and prestigious manufacturer, having actually produced fabric from the vintage era. The company has now changed its name to Cone Denim, and supplies denim fabric to many brands.
Silent W		Just like Levi's Arcuate, Wrangler also has something called the Silent W. The back pockets and jacket pockets have W stitching. The shape changes with the years, which is also similar to Levi's.
サスペンダーボタン		This detail can be seen not only in LEVI'S but also in many other brands. In the case of LEVI'S, it can be seen even before 501, when the 1890 lot number was attached. The 1922 model 501XX had suspender buttons and belt loops, but at that time the habit of wearing a belt had not yet become widespread, and the 1937 model did not have suspender buttons. This marked the start of the 501XX as fashion, not as workwear.
Gelt denim		This is the denim for workwear that Lee adopted in 1925. The fabric is soft and easy to move in, and the density of the weave is designed to make it strong. This denim fabric is suitable for workwear that requires functionality and durability.
Zip fly		First of all, the "fly" in button fly and zipper fly refers to the flaps that hide them. If the thing that hides is a zipper, including bottoms other than denim, it is a zipper fly. The zipper fly was probably started with overalls that combined gelt denim and a hookless zipper developed in 1925, and that was Lee's famous WHIZIT. In 1926, Lee released the 101Z, the world's first jeans with a zip fly.
shuttle loom		In Japan, these looms are known as old power looms, and are used to weave denim fabric with selvedge (mentioned above). They were actually used to weave fabric from the vintage era. Compared to the latest innovative looms that allow for more efficient mass production, the fabric width is about half and the speed is only one-sixth, making the machines significantly less productive. Furthermore, because the machines are old and no longer manufactured, problems are commonplace and daily maintenance and adjustments are essential, requiring a lot of time and effort. However, the uneven, rough texture and rough appearance that are unique to vintage denim can only be expressed on a power loom, and so denim fans view it as rare and valuable.
Shrink-to-Fit		Shrink-to-fit refers to the process of washing unwashed denim (raw denim) to significantly shrink it and make it fit your own body.
stitch		This refers to seams such as single stitch and chain stitch. Until the 1920s, jeans were sewn with a lock stitch (single stitch) as shown above. Later, as mass production began, rolled seams were adopted for the yoke and inseam, and chain stitching came to be used. The hem was also changed to a chain stitch. The stitch pattern and the material of the sewing thread are also one of the points of evidence that can be used to determine the age of jeans.
Thread Rivet		Lee uses X-shaped reinforcement stitching on the back pocket instead of metal reinforcement. The reason is to prevent damage to the saddle, and it is one of the details seen in cowboy pants. It has been used since 1924.
selvedge		The selvedge of denim fabric. There are "plain selvedge" for plain weave, "twill selvedge" for twill weave, and selvedge-less lock fastening. Plain selvedge was commonly seen before the war. Red selvedge is also a type of selvedge, and selvedge of a different color also exists. Since the 1960s, denim has become wider, and lock fastening has been applied to the edges of the fabric without selvedge.
war model		This refers to the S1942XX, which was made under material control from XNUMX to XNUMX. Levi's was required by the U.S. government's War Products Board (WPB) to eliminate parts of the material that were considered wasteful in making jeans. This is a very rare model and the vintage ones are extremely popular, making it a supreme model that sells for high prices. The initial letter is "S," which stands for "Simplified," and it identified it as different from the regular 501XX.
タイプ物		Some patches found between 1967 and 69 have S, A, F, or I printed above the 501 marking, and are called type items. Most are either S or A, and F and I are almost never seen. Therefore, while S and A types are better in terms of quality, there are few types marked with F or I, so some people are looking for them.
Vertical drop		As the garment is worn and washed repeatedly, the vertical threads on the surface of the fabric become worn, causing the indigo dye to gradually wear off, resulting in vertical linear fading. This is a unique look seen in denim fabric made on old-fashioned power looms (described below), which used uneven yarns and were unable to weave evenly, and cannot be achieved with fabric made on modern, innovative looms that can be mass-produced uniformly. This is the true joy of vintage jeans and those that replicate the texture of vintage materials, and it is also considered the standard for "cool fading."
チェーンステッチ		This is the name of a stitch that has a chain-like shape on the reverse side. When washed, the sewing thread shrinks and the stitches become tightly packed, and the difference in shrinkage with the fabric creates impressive puckering (described below), resulting in a well-defined texture. Therefore, when lengthening vintage jeans or other jeans where you want to preserve their character, it is considered good to chain stitch the hems, and this can be done at specialist stores and some specialty shops.
Twitch Labels		This refers to Lee leather patches that have not been pre-shrunk.
top button		The button in the center of the waistband is called the top button. Generally, this button has the brand logo on it, but some wartime models use plain or laurel-patterned buttons that were pre-made at the time. Older items have iron buttons, and many vintage items that have survived to the present day are found to be rusty and aged.
triple stitch		A detail seen on work pants. The outseam is triple-stitched instead of double-stitched. Triple stitching makes it possible to give it durability. Apart from work pants, this stitching is seen on coveralls, chambray, dungaree and other shirts.
Diagonal e		This is seen on tags up until the mid-1940s, with the "e" in Lee slanted. It is also called the "rolled e."
Raw denim		It is also called RAW denim. RAW means "raw, unprocessed," and jeans that have not been treated to prevent shrinkage or wash are called raw denim. Therefore, they shrink significantly when washed.
Number 2 Denim		This refers to a cheaper denim fabric that is thinner than XX fabric and has a lower dye concentration. While you might think that Levi's = red selvedge, NO.2 denim is blue selvedge. It was around from 1900 to around 43. Since it was produced in small numbers and was a cheaper version, there are few left, making it highly valuable. Famous NO.211 denims include 213, 201, and 2.
Number 3 Denim		NO.2 denim is an even cheaper version of NO.3 denim. Its main product number is 333. Since there is no detailed information, all we know at this stage is that NO.2 denim is an even cheaper version of NO.3 denim.
Cloth Patch		This patch can be seen on the inexpensive 30, XNUMX, XNUMX and the XNUMX from the XNUMXs. It is also called a linen patch.
house mark		This refers to the Lee house-shaped label design that was used from around the 1910s to the 40s.
Puckering		When washed, the difference in shrinkage rate of the fabric and sewing thread causes tension and distortion, resulting in continuous wrinkles and unevenness. The raised areas are more likely to rub and fade, creating contrast and giving the garment a rich, three-dimensional look. In jeans, puckering appears in key areas such as the pocket openings, hip yokes, and hems, but the areas sewn with a chain stitch (mentioned above) have particularly impressive puckering.
Back Cinch		Not only Levi's, but almost all back cinches disappeared during World War II. This was originally used to adjust the waist size when suspenders were used. The design remained on denim jackets until the 50s, but the pin-stitching technique was no longer used because it could damage car seats.
バックポケット		A pocket located at the hip level. Levi's discontinued the design of riveting both sides of the back pocket from the outside in 1936. Many work pants also discontinued this design around 1950. Therefore, the presence or absence of this feature can be used to estimate the production date to some extent. The stitching design of the back pocket is also an important point that shows the individuality of each brand.
patch		A patch attached to the back of the waistband with information such as the brand and model number engraved on it (leather patches are also called leather patches). The material of the name label varies depending on the brand, but high-end brands tend to use leather. Levi's, which is the most commonly used name label, changed from leather to paper in the mid-1950s. When it was still made of leather, the cloth label shown below was attached to inexpensive models. Nowadays cowhide patches are mainstream, but back then deerskin was sometimes used.
Banzai sewing		This process got its name from the fact that the belt loops are sewn on at the same time as the obi is attached to the waist, leaving the belt loops in an upright position.
beard		This is a slang term for the discoloration that occurs when jeans are worn in a line from the crotch to the thigh. The name comes from the fact that the shape resembles an animal's whiskers. In contrast, discoloration that appears behind the knee is also called "hachinosu" and vintage jeans with good contrasting discoloration are often traded at high prices.
Left Twill		Left-handed twill denim is woven in the same direction as the yarn twist, so it is flexible and easy to wear, and has a flat fabric surface with few bumps. Compared to right-handed twill denim, it feels softer when worn. This is a brand that uses left-hand twill denim, which is typical of LEE and Wrangler.
BIG E		Levi's products from September 1936 to March 9 had the "LEVI'S" logo written with a capital E. This is called the "BIG E." After March 1971, the logo was changed to a "small e" when the "e" in "Levi's" was lowercase.
One stroke stitch		This is the sewing method used to sew on the back pockets of jeans. It requires advanced technique as the fabric is sewn in one go from start to finish, but the finished product is less likely to fray. The back pocket, waistband and leather patch are sewn on.
5 pockets		Compared to the 1901 501XX, it has back pockets on both sides, making it a 5-pocket style. This model is also known as the original 5-pocket model, and is still popular among denim enthusiasts today. It is a form that I love very much.
V stitch		This refers to the V-stitching near the top button that could be seen until the final period of 501XX (period without guarantee). Since the sewing machines at the time were not capable of backstitching, a double stitch to prevent fraying, the V-stitching was used as a measure against fraying.
Flasher		This refers to the paper label attached to the back pocket, or to put it simply, it is the product's instruction manual. It lists the material and silhouette of the product, and shrink notes such as "will it shrink when washed?". It also has the brand's character written on it, so it serves the purpose of catching people's attention. Also, the design may change depending on the year, so denim with a flasher has become more valuable.
Pre-Shrunk		This refers to denim that has been treated to prevent shrinking, as used by Levi's. The material number is written after the product number, such as 505-0217. 02 means pre-shrunk, and 01 means shrunken.
Blue Bell Company		A long-established work brand founded in 1904. In 1947, the company established Wrangler, one of the three major jeans brands alongside Maverick, Big Ben, Levi's, and Lee.
Front fly		The part where the fabric of the front body overlaps is called the front fly, and there are two types of jeans: button fly and zipper fly. Generally, raw denim (which shrinks when washed) is the former, while shrink-proof denim is more common in the latter. This is because if the fabric shrinks, the zipper will not fit together and will be damaged.
Hair on Hide		In 1926, Lee released the XNUMXZ, the world's first zippered jacket, and the first leather patch. The patch, which was branded on cowhide with hair to make it familiar to cowboys, is called hair-on-hide.
ベルトループ		As the name suggests, it refers to the loop-shaped part through which the belt is passed. As belts began to become popular around the 1920s, belt loops were also added to jeans.
Paint stitch		In 1943, material controls were implemented due to the war. Levi's also changed the details, one of which was to paint stitching on the back pockets instead of arcuate stitching. There are very few surviving S1XXs with the paint stitching still intact.
Pocket sleeve		This refers to the lining of the pocket. During World War II, due to the shortage of supplies, various fabrics were used instead of off-white cotton twill. Rare examples include denim, flannel, and herringbone. The older the rivets on this part are, the copper they are, and Levi's used them until the early 1960s.
Button fly		One of the details of the 501. In 54, the zipper type 501ZXX was released, but in the following year of 55, the button fly was restored. Since then, the 501 has had a button fly. The 501ZXX was renamed to the 502.
Crotch rivet		Until the Second World War, many manufacturers, including Levi's, used rivets to reinforce the crotch of their jeans and work pants. Later, due to material restrictions, this practice was abolished, and from the 1960s onwards, reinforcement was done with bar rivets.
Uneven yarn		When talking about vintage materials, uneven threads are one of the essential points when it comes to expression. This refers to a single strand of thread that has thick and thin parts artificially and randomly applied to it. Before the development of spinning technology, unevenness in the thread would naturally occur even when trying to make a clean, straight thread. However, in recent years, the vertical fading and other discoloration caused by unevenness in the thread has been reevaluated as a feature, and it has become common to make uneven thread. Uneven thread, developed in an era when it was possible to spin uniform thread, is a groundbreaking spinning technology that not only helped to reproduce the look of vintage jeans, but also contributed to adding depth to the expression of distressed processing.
Cotton thread		Literally cotton thread. It is said to have been used as the sewing thread for Levi's jeans until the late 1960s. The sewing thread fades and changes color as the body fades. Spun yarn is the mainstream now. By sewing with cotton thread, the thread tightens with each wash and creates a nice puckering.
Jacob Davis		He is considered the father of jeans. He came up with the idea of ​​attaching copper rivets to duck fabric to reinforce the seams and pockets in order to make durable pants suitable for work. This was well received among workers. He then applied for a patent for the rivet together with his business partner Levi's. The patent was obtained on May 1873, 5.
UFO Rivet		This rivet was commonly seen on painter pants from the 40s and is named after its UFO-like shape, and is also called a dome rivet.
Lee Cowboy		Lee's cowboy models from the 30s and 40s are one of the most expensive vintage models, and like Levi's, during the war they did not feature laurel leaves but rather doughnut buttons with the Lee COWBOY embossed on them.
Levi Strauss		The creator and founder of Levi's. Also the creator of jeans. Born in Germany in 1829. Founded Levi Strauss in 1853. In 1873, he produced jeans with rivets together with Jacob Davis, and released the 1890 in 501. He died in 1902.
Lee Riders		In the late 40s, the name was changed from Cowboy to Riders. The reason for the name change is thought to be that the target audience was broadened.
rigid		Rigid refers to raw denim and unwashed denim that has been treated to prevent shrinkage. It is often said that rigid = raw denim, but the correct term is raw denim + unwashed denim that has been treated to prevent shrinkage. Denim that has not been washed is treated as rigid.
rivet		The rivet reinforcement was patented in 1873 and is a symbol of jeans. The strength of the rivet pockets is what made the Levi's brand so popular among workers. Originally, the jeans were flat and had a hammered mark in the center. Levi's jeans can be dated to some extent by this mark.
rinse		This term refers to one wash, and denim that has been washed once and shrunk is called rinsed denim.
Lazy S		This refers to the gentle S-shaped stitching, a detail seen on back pockets from 1944 onwards.
Rope dyeing		Rope dyeing involves bundling several threads into a rope and using a rope dyeing machine to repeatedly dip the threads into a layer of indigo from a high position and pull them up. The threads that are just pulled up from the layer of indigo dye are yellow to yellow-green in color, but when they come into contact with air, the indigo oxidizes and turns blue. Indigo dye itself is completely insoluble in water, so it cannot dye cotton threads by itself. In order to dye, the indigo liquid must be reduced and dissolved in water before it can be used. Indigo is difficult to absorb and does not dye to a deep color in just one dyeing, so the indigo is repeatedly dipped and pulled up to deepen the color. The more times it is dipped, the darker the color will become, but the dye does not penetrate to the inside and only the surface is dyed, resulting in a white-colored denim with good color fading. The rope dyeing process is essential to making denim that looks like vintage denim.
Long L button		This refers to the Lee logo design with the letter L stretched out horizontally. It can be seen on buttons up until around 1950, so it is quite common to see it.