Glossary of Vintage Jeans Terminology

What are vintage jeans?

While there are various theories, vintage jeans refer to those released to the world between the 1870s and the 1960s.

Today, denim lovers have left a wealth of information in books, documents, and digital materials, and have passed on knowledge verbally from person to person.

However, we understand that not all of this information is necessarily the sole truth.

This is because each pair of jeans was made by hand, and there were many different factories.

Therefore, there are many cases where individual pieces have differences in details.

This means that each pair of vintage jeans you own has its own history.

That's why jeans are so interesting.

This vintage jeans glossary is merely one interpretation of vintage jeans by JELADO.

Please enjoy.

 

Term (links to blog posts for each term)	Image	Description
101J		The 101J, which has existed since 1931, appeared in a Western style. It was more commonly known as "COWBOY" with its one-pocket style. From the 1940s, when it became a two-pocket style, to the current reproductions, the design has remained unchanged, and the 101J is highly regarded for its complete design. There is a rumor that the 557XX (3rd) later released by LEVI'S was modeled after this 101J, because the 557XX and 101J have similar constructions.
501XX		Since its first lot number in 1890, this is a timeless vintage classic that continued until around 1967, gradually changing its design, fabric, silhouette, and sewing specifications with the times. It is the ultimate straight denim that every denim lover wants to wear at least once.
506XX		Commonly known as "1st" (First). The 1st model, which has existed since around the 1890s, is characterized by a left chest pocket and a cinch back with a needle-punched buckle on the back. It is said that the flap pocket was added around 1923-28, and the 1st model with a red tab, designed by Chris Lucian, appeared in 1936. During World War II, there was material rationing, and while some details changed during that period, it featured a needle-punched buckle until 1947. From '47, it switched to a slide buckle. It existed until 1952.
507XX		Commonly known as the 2nd model, produced from 1952 to 1962. A major difference from the 1st model is the addition of pockets on both sides and the elimination of the slider buckle on the back. Buttons on both sides allow for waist adjustment. Since the 1st model existed until 1952, some 2nd models have leather patches and single-sided tabs (although 2nd models generally have double-sided tabs). Paper patches were also adopted starting with this 2nd model. Paper patches from 1955-62 that include "EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED" are called "guaranteed," and those without are called "non-guaranteed."
557XX		Commonly known as the 3rd model. It differs significantly from the 2nd model, becoming more stylish. Later, Levi's sold jackets based on this 3rd model, from the 70505 to the present day. This model has been loved for many years and is considered the perfect form of a jacket. The earliest versions of this model have "guaranteed" tags. Subsequent versions do not. In recent years, the popularity and price of the 3rd model have surged, similar to the 1st and 2nd models.
66 model		Jeans produced from around 1973 to 1980. Jeans before the '66 model had "LEVI'S" with a capital 'E' on the red tab (Big E). From 1973 onwards, the 'E' in Levi's changed to a lowercase 'e' (Small e). One of the major features of the '66 model is the Small e. The '66 model is also divided into early and late periods, with the early period being more popular and expensive. At the time, when new jeans were purchased, the paper label attached to the back pocket, called a flasher, had "©1966" written on it, hence the name '66 model. The silhouette and fabric were significantly changed from the 501XX, resulting in a slightly slimmer denim with a tapered hem for a clean look. Due to the recent rapid rise in vintage denim prices, the '66 model's value has significantly increased.
70505		The 70505, which appeared around 1967, is based on the 557XX, though with some minor detail changes. The same can be said for current models. While the prices of 1st, 2nd, and 3rd models are currently soaring, the 70505 model is also expected to see a price increase. It features a Big E from 1967 to 1970, and a small "e" from 1971 onwards.
Arcuate Stitch		This refers to the arched stitch sewn into the back pockets of Levi's jeans, first applied in 1873. This arcuate stitch changed its shape slightly over the years, making it a useful detail for identifying the period. Many brands imitated this stitch, leading Levi's to trademark it in 1943.
Outseam		The seam on the outside of denim. "Out" (outside) and "seam" (joint, closure, stitching).
Blue Selvage		Blue selvage is seen in Levi's No. 2 denim and Lee's selvage denim. There is a theory that Levi's has red selvage and Lee has blue selvage to differentiate between the two brands.
Red Tag		Refers to the tag attached to Lee's 101 series in the 1940s.
Red Tab		This refers to the small red tag sewn on the left side of the right back pocket of Levi's jeans. Not only its name but also its placement is trademarked, so tags from other companies should correctly be referred to as "pis names" (a general term for small fabric labels). Incidentally, if the woven brand name is in capital letters, it's distinguished as "Big E," and if it's in lowercase, it's "small e," serving as a criterion for dating in the world of vintage clothing. Different models also feature orange tabs, white tabs, silver tabs, and so on. Over time, the material has changed from rayon to polyester.
Red Selvedge		This refers to the finished edges of denim fabric. In English, it's called "selvedge" and was added to prevent fraying at the ends of the fabric when denim was woven on old-style looms. Levi's selvedge in particular is known as "red selvedge" due to its red stitching. It continued until it disappeared in 1986 and is an indispensable detail when discussing vintage jeans.
Fades/Whiskering		This is a type of unique denim fading, a colloquial term for the state where repeated wear and washing cause the fabric surface to rub, exposing the white fibers in the core of the threads. It is seen in key areas such as pocket openings and side seams, creating a rich, well-worn look unique to broken-in jeans. For example, line-shaped fading caused by rubbing against the selvedge on the reverse side is called "selvedge fading." Puckering is also a type of this.
Amoskeag		Before Cone Mills' denim was used in 1915, Amoskeag Manufacturing Company supplied denim to Levi's. The transaction of denim fabric with Levi's ended in 1922. Amoskeag Manufacturing Company is located in Manchester, New Hampshire, on the East Coast of the United States. The area where Amoskeag was located is known as New England, where the first weaving mills in America were built, and by 1873, Amoskeag fabrics were well-known for their high quality. Amoskeag was incorporated in 1831 and appears to have been producing denim by the mid-1860s.
Inseam		The seam on the inside of denim. "In" (inside) + "seam" (joint, closure, stitch).
Indigo Dye		Generally, indigo dyes are categorized as natural or synthetic, but it is believed that most 5-pocket jeans from the era they were created were dyed with synthetic indigo. Synthetic indigo was developed by German scientists in the late 1800s, and in the early 1900s, indigo dye seems to have been imported from Germany. With its beautiful blue hue and attractive fading, it can be said to be a unique dye for making jeans.
Waist Overalls		Refers to the original design of jeans. Waist overalls are said to have originated from cutting off the bib part of overalls, and they represent the genesis of jeans as they evolved from work pants worn at the waist.
Waistband		The band-shaped part around the waist is called the waistband. In Levi's denim from the late 1930s, the lower part of this was chain-stitched, but the upper part remained single-stitched; from the late 1960s, the upper part also became chain-stitched.
Ounce		A unit of mass in the imperial system, 1 ounce is approximately 28.3g and is denoted by the symbol "oz." In jeans, it is used to express fabric weight, referring to the weight per square yard, not per pair of pants. 10-14 ounces is considered standard, with thicker, heavier denim called "heavy ounce" and lighter, thinner denim called "light ounce."
Hidden Rivet		Hidden rivets were a specification used from 1937 to 1966. After this period, bar tacks were adopted, and hidden rivets became a product of history.
Bar Tack		Adopted as a replacement for hidden rivets. It is said to have the same strength as a rivet by reinforcing the edge of the back pocket of jeans with thick thread. Also known as a bar tack.
Yellow Tag		A tag used on Lee's 101 series from around the 1970s.
Gimme Book		A mini-book style warranty included with Wrangler jeans from 1954. Each Gimme Book has its own story, and there are actually many collectors looking for them.
Guaranteed/Non-Guaranteed		Paper patches with "EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED" are referred to as "guaranteed" (gyara-ari) and are seen on early 501XX, 507XX, and 557XX models from 1955 to 1962. Those without "EVERY GARMENT GUARANTEED" are from around 1962 to 1966. Therefore, some 557XX and 507XX (final period) models also exist without the guarantee.
Guarantee Ticket		This refers to a ticket that comes separately from the paper tag (slasher) and serves as a quality guarantee. Originally, in 1890, it was printed on the pocket bag fabric, just like current versions, and the first guarantee ticket was attached in 1892...
Chris Lucier		The inventor of the Red Tab. While conducting an unofficial survey at a rodeo to identify "Levi's wearers," he found it impossible to tell who was wearing Levi's, leading him to conceive the Red Tab as a distinguishing mark. This was adopted for overalls on September 1, 1936.
Gripper Zipper		Zippers seen from the mid-1950s to the mid-1960s. For square-shaped types, a pin-lock indicates the mid-50s, while a cam-lock indicates the 60s, allowing for dating. There is also a tapered type, which can be seen until the mid-60s.
Black Tag		A tag seen on Lee's 101 series from around the 1950s.
Coin Pocket		The coin pocket, once said to have held pocket watches. Rivets on both sides were mostly abolished only during World War II but revived after the war. Many pocket openings featured selvedge until around the 1960s. In the era before belt loops, coin pockets were sewn higher up.
Cone Mills		America's leading denim mill. Since 1915, it has been a supplier to Levi's and actually produced fabrics from the vintage era, earning it a respected position among denim fans as a trusted, prestigious manufacturer. Currently, the company has changed its name to "Cone Denim" and supplies denim fabric to many brands.
Silent W		Just as Levi's has its arcuate, Wrangler has its "Silent W." A W-shaped stitch is applied to the back pockets of jeans and the pockets of jackets. The way its shape changes with different eras is also very similar to Levi's.
Suspender Buttons			Jelt Denim		A workwear denim adopted by Lee in 1925, characterized by its softness and flexibility, and improved durability through a special weaving density. This denim fabric is suitable for workwear that requires functionality and durability.
Zipper Fly		First, the "fly" in button fly and zipper fly refers to the placket that conceals them. If a zipper conceals them, including non-denim bottoms, it's a zipper fly. The combination of Jelt denim and Hookless fasteners in overalls, developed in 1925, was probably the start of the zipper fly, and this is famously known as Lee's WHIZIT. In 1926, Lee launched the world's first zipper-fly jeans, the 101Z.
Shuttle Loom		In Japan, it is also known as an old power loom and is a loom that weaves denim fabric with selvage (as mentioned above). It is the loom that actually wove fabrics from the era known as vintage. Compared to the latest innovative looms that can produce mass quantities more efficiently, the fabric width is about half, and the speed is about one-sixth, resulting in significantly lower productivity. Furthermore, since these are old machines that are no longer manufactured, troubles are commonplace, and daily maintenance and adjustments are indispensable, requiring a great deal of time and effort. However, the uneven, rough texture and rugged appearance, which are unique to vintage items, can only be achieved with power looms, making them highly valued by denim fans as rare and valuable items.
Shrink-to-Fit		Shrink-to-fit refers to washing unwashed (raw) denim to significantly shrink it and make it fit one's body.
Stitching		Refers to seams such as single stitching and chain stitching. Until the 1920s, jean construction primarily used straight stitching (single stitching) as shown above. With mass production, flat-felled seams were adopted for yokes and inseams, leading to the use of chain stitching. Hems were also changed to chain stitching. The stitch count and thread material are also key indicators for determining the age of a garment.
Thread Rivets		Lee adopted X-shaped reinforcement stitching for back pockets instead of metal reinforcement. The reason was to avoid scratching saddles, making it a detail seen in cowboy pants. This has been used since 1924.
Selvage		This refers to the edge of denim fabric. There are "plain selvage" (flat weave), "twill selvage" (twill weave), and non-selvage overlocked edges. Plain selvage is often seen before the war. Red selvage is a type of selvage, and other colored selvage also exist. After the 1960s, denim fabric width increased, and overlocking was applied to fabric edges without selvage.
Wartime Model		Refers to the S501XX produced under wartime material controls from 1942 to 1945. These were regulated by the War Production Board (WPB) of the US government, with parts deemed wasteful in jeans production eliminated. This is an extremely rare model, and its vintage popularity is immense, making it a highly valued and supreme model traded at high prices. The "S" in its name stands for "Simplified," distinguishing it from the regular 501XX.
Type Model		Around 1967-69, some patches had S, A, F, or I written above the 501 print; these are called "type models." Most are either S or A, with F or I being very rare. Therefore, in terms of quality, S or A types are better, but some people seek F or I type models because they are scarce.
Vertical Fading		A state where repeated wear and washing cause the vertical threads on the fabric surface to rub, indigo dye to gradually fade, and linear fading to appear in a vertical direction. This unique characteristic is seen in denim fabrics produced on old power looms (described later), which used uneven yarns and could not weave uniformly. It cannot be achieved with fabrics from modern, innovative looms that can mass-produce uniformly. It is both the true pleasure of vintage jeans and those that reproduce their material texture, and also considered the standard for "cool fading."
Chain Stitch		The name for a stitch where the underside of the seam is chain-like. When washed, the stitching tightens due to thread shrinkage, and the difference in shrinkage rate with the fabric creates impressive puckering (described later), resulting in sharp, defined fading. For this reason, when hemming vintage-style jeans or those where a rich texture is desired, it is considered best to use a chain stitch, which can be done at specialty stores and some dedicated shops.
Twitch Label		Refers to Lee's leather patch that has not undergone shrink-proofing.
Top Button		The button in the center of the waistband is called the top button. Generally, these buttons feature a brand logo, but wartime models sometimes used plain or laurel-patterned ready-made buttons from that era. Older buttons were made of iron, and many vintage ones that have survived to the present day are found rusted and aged.
Triple Stitch		A detail found in work pants. It refers to an outseam with three rows of stitching instead of two. Triple stitching enhances durability. Besides work pants, this type of stitching is also seen in coveralls and shirts made of chambray or dungaree fabric.
Slanted e		Seen on tags until the mid-1940s, where the 'e' in Lee is slanted. Also known as a rolling 'e'.
Raw Denim		Also known as RAW denim. RAW means "unprocessed," and raw denim refers to jeans that have not undergone any shrink-proofing or washing. Therefore, they will shrink significantly when washed.
Number 2 Denim		This refers to a cheaper version of denim fabric that is thinner than XX fabric and has a lighter dye concentration. One might associate Levi's with red selvedge, but No. 2 denim has blue selvedge. It existed from around 1900 to 1943. Production numbers were low, and since it was a cheaper version, few remain, making it highly rare. Well-known models like 211, 213, and 201 are No. 2 denim.
Number 3 Denim		Number 3 denim is an even cheaper version than Number 2 denim. The main product number is 333. Due to a lack of detailed information, at this stage, all that is known about Number 3 denim is that it is a further cheaper version of Number 2 denim.
Cloth Patch		A patch seen on economical models like 201, 211, 213, and 1930s 701. Also known as a linen patch.
House Mark		This refers to Lee's house-shaped label design used from around the 1910s to the 1940s.
Puckering		This refers to the uneven, puckered state where continuous wrinkles form due to the difference in shrinkage rates between the fabric and sewing thread after washing. The raised parts are more prone to rubbing and fading, creating contrast and resulting in a rich, three-dimensional look. In jeans, puckering appears in key areas such as pocket openings, hip yokes, and hems, but it is especially prominent in areas sewn with chain stitching (as mentioned earlier).
Back Cinch		Almost all back cinches, not just on Levi's, disappeared during World War II. These were originally used to adjust waist size in an era when trousers were held up by suspenders. The design continued on denim jackets until the 1950s, but the pin-buckle type was phased out due to concerns about it scratching car seats.
Back Pocket		This refers to the pockets located on the backside. Levi's abolished the specification of riveting both sides of the back pockets from the outside in 1936. Many work pants also abolished this around 1950. Therefore, the presence or absence of this feature can be a clue to estimating the manufacturing date. The design of the back pocket stitching is also an important point that brings out the individuality of each brand.
Patch		A patch attached to the back of the waistband, engraved with information such as the brand and model number (leather ones are also called leather patches). The material of the name label varies by brand, but luxury brands often used leather. Levi's, which is most often referenced, switched from leather to paper in the mid-1950s. During the leather era, cheaper models came with the cloth label below. Currently, cowhide patches are mainstream, but there was also a time when deerskin was used.
Banzai Stitching		This process is named for the way the belt loops are sewn on along with the waistband, causing them to stand up like arms raised in a "Banzai" cheer.
Whiskers		This is a common term for the fading of wear-in creases that spread linearly from the crotch to the thighs of jeans. The shape resembles an animal's whiskers, hence the name. In contrast, the fading that appears behind the knees is called "honeycombs," and vintage items with good contrast fading are often traded at high prices.
Left-Hand Twill		Left-hand twill denim is woven in the same direction as the yarn twist, resulting in a flexible, comfortable fabric with a flat surface and fewer irregularities. Compared to right-hand twill, it feels softer to wear. LEE and Wrangler are prominent brands that use left-hand twill denim.
BIG E		On Levi's products from September 1936 to March 1971, the "E" in "LEVI'S" was capitalized. This is referred to as BIG E. After March 1971, the lettering changed, and if the "e" in Levi's is lowercase, it is called small e.
Single-Stroke Stitching		This is a sewing method used when attaching the back pockets of jeans. It requires advanced skill because it involves sewing from start to finish in one continuous stroke, like a single brushstroke, resulting in a finish that is less prone to fraying. This sewing specification is used to attach back pockets, waistbands, and leather patches.
5-Pocket		The 5-pocket style originated with the 1901 501XX, which featured back pockets on both sides. This model is considered the ancestor of the 5-pocket design and remains a beloved shape for denim enthusiasts to this day.
V-Stitch		This refers to the V-stitch found near the top button on 501XX jeans up to their final period (the "no guarantee" era). Since sewing machines of that time could not perform backstitching (double stitching to prevent fraying), the V-stitch was adopted as a measure against fraying.
Flasher		This refers to the paper label attached to the back pocket, which is essentially a product description. It contains information such as the product's material, silhouette, and shrinkage instructions. It may also feature brand characters, serving as an eye-catching element. The design can change with different eras, and denim with its original flasher intact can increase in value.
Pre-shrunk		This refers to denim treated with shrinkage-prevention processing used by Levi's. The material number is indicated after the product number, like 505-0217. "02" signifies pre-shrunk, while "01" signifies shrink-to-fit.
Blue Bell Company		An established workwear brand founded in 1904. In addition to Maverick and BIG BEN, this company established Wrangler in 1947, one of the three major denim brands alongside Levi's and Lee.
Front Fly		The overlapping fabric section of the front body is called the front fly, and jeans have two types: button fly or zipper fly. Generally, raw denim (which shrinks when washed) tends to have the former, and pre-shrunk denim tends to have the latter. This is because if the fabric shrinks, the zipper can get caught and break.
Hair-on-Hide		In 1926, Lee released the 101Z, the world's first zippered jeans, and with it, the first leather patch. The patch, branded onto hairy cowhide to be familiar to cowboys, is called a "Hair-on-Hide" patch.
Belt Loop		As the name suggests, this refers to the loop-shaped part through which a belt is threaded. With the increasing popularity of belts around the 1920s, belt loops were also added to jeans.
Painted Stitch		In 1943, wartime material controls were implemented. Levi's also made changes to its details, one of which was to apply painted stitches instead of arcuate stitches on the back pockets. Few existing S501XX jeans still have their painted stitches perfectly preserved.
Pocket Slake		This refers to the inner fabric of the pocket. During World War II, due to material shortages, various fabrics were used as substitutes instead of unbleached cotton twill. Rare examples include denim, flannel, and herringbone. The older the piece, the more likely the back of the rivets in this area are made of copper, which Levi's used until the early 1960s.
Button Fly		One of the details of the 501. The zippered 501ZXX was released in '54, but it reverted to a button fly the following year in '55. Since then, the 501 has been a button fly. The 501ZXX was changed to model number 502.
Crotch Rivet		Until World War II, many manufacturers, not just Levi's, used rivet reinforcement in the crotch of their jeans and work pants. This was later abolished due to material controls and replaced with bar-tack reinforcement around the 1960s.
Uneven Yarn		Uneven yarn is one of the indispensable elements when discussing and reproducing vintage materials. It refers to a single thread that has been intentionally and randomly given thick and thin sections. Before the development of spinning technology, unevenness in yarn naturally occurred even when trying to produce a clean, straight thread. However, the fading effects, such as vertical fading, created by uneven yarn were re-evaluated as a desirable characteristic in recent years, leading to its intentional production. Uneven yarn, developed in an era when uniform threads could be spun, is a groundbreaking spinning technology that not only contributes to the reproduction of vintage jeans but also adds depth to expressions of used processing.
Cotton Thread		Literally cotton thread. It is said to have been used for sewing Levi's jeans until the late 1960s. As the main body fades, the sewing thread also fades and changes. The current mainstream is mostly spun thread. Sewing with cotton thread causes the thread to tighten with each wash, resulting in good puckering.
Jacob Davis		The person who can be called the father of jeans. He devised attaching copper rivets to the seams and pockets of duck fabric to reinforce sturdy pants suitable for labor. This was popular among workers. Afterward, he jointly applied for a patent for rivets with Levi's, his business partner. The patent was granted on May 20, 1873.
UFO Rivet		This rivet is often seen on painter pants from the 1940s and is called by this name because of its UFO-like shape. It is also known as a dome rivet.
Lee Cowboy		Lee's "Cowboy" models from the 1930s to 1940s are highly prized vintage items. Like Levi's, during the war, they used raised "Lee COWBOY" donut buttons instead of laurel wreath designs.
Levi Strauss		The founder and originator of Levi's and the inventor of jeans. Born in Germany in 1829. Founded Levi Strauss & Co. in 1853. Produced jeans with rivets in 1873 with Jacob Davis, and released the 501 in 1890. Died in 1902.
Lee Riders		From the late 1940s, the name changed from "Cowboy" to "Riders." This change in name is believed to be due to broadening the target audience.
Rigid		Rigid refers to raw denim and unwashed, pre-shrunk denim. While "rigid" is often equated with "raw denim," the correct definition is raw denim + unwashed and pre-shrunk denim. Unwashed denim is treated as rigid.
Rivet		Rivet reinforcement, patented in 1873, is a symbolic feature of jeans, and it was the strength of the pockets provided by rivets that led to the widespread popularity of the Levi's brand among laborers. Initially, they were flat with a hammered mark in the center. Levi's can roughly determine the age of their jeans based on the stamping on these rivets.
Rinse		This term refers to a one-wash process; denim that has been one-washed and shrunk is called rinse denim.
Lazy S		This detail is seen on back pockets from 1944 onwards, referring to the gently S-shaped stitching.
Rope Dyeing		Rope dyeing involves bundling several threads into a rope shape and using a rope dyeing machine to repeatedly immerse the threads into an indigo dye bath from a high position and pull them out. Threads just pulled out of the indigo dye bath are yellow to yellowish-green and develop a blue color as the indigo oxidizes upon contact with air. Indigo dye itself is completely insoluble in water, so it cannot dye cotton threads on its own. To dye, the indigo solution must first be reduced and dissolved in water. Since indigo is difficult to dye and does not achieve a deep color with a single application, the process of immersion and lifting is repeated many times to intensify the indigo color. The more repetitions, the darker the dye becomes. However, the dye often only penetrates the surface, leaving the core undyed (known as "white core"), which results in denim that fades beautifully. The rope dyeing process is essential for creating denim that resembles vintage denim.
Long L Button		Refers to Lee's logo design where the "L" extends horizontally. Often seen on buttons from around the 1950s.