JELADO Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX Denim Pants [JP94301E]

Using a black tag, we have produced an early 47 model, which is one of the most popular XX models of all time.
This is a special denim created using a new approach by dismantling, analyzing and recreating XX denim.
We sampled a vintage item in our possession that measures 32 inches, the so-called golden size, and faithfully reproduced the fit of that time.
The particular item we approached this time has been reproduced with all the key features that would enable us to identify its age, such as the leather patch, single-sided tabs, long side stitching, and thick belt loops similar to those used in the Beltroop War. However, we also carefully recreated the individual items' distinctive features, such as the coin pocket being sewn quite low and the back pocket having a significantly larger seam allowance.
A black LASTRESORT tag is sewn onto the pocket opening.
The inseam is sewn in three steps to create a firm fit.
We sew with consideration of the intentions behind the designs of the time, such as shifting the seam of the back yoke and differing the length of the waistband between the front and back to minimize tension.
The jeans are reproduced while taking into account Levi's's ideas at the time, such as the fit and stitching that makes it as unlikely as possible for threads to break.
That was the approach we took.
The buttons are original plated iron buttons.
It has a single-sided rayon tab, original copper rivets, and the leather patch is made from horse leather, which has a rough surface that makes it difficult to print on, resulting in individual differences in the patch.
Although the socks will feel stiff at first, they will soften from the second day and you will feel the same stretch and softness of the fabric as the ones with the white tag.

～LASTRESORT BLACK TAG～

Two years ago, to mark the 2th anniversary of the launch of JELADO, we risked our company's future by creating LAST RESORT DENIM.
The Dead Stock from that time was dismantled, and an analysis institute analyzed the length of the cotton fibers, the thickness and twist of the thread, and even the number of threads per inch of the fabric, from data on two Dead Stock from a similar era.
Raw cotton that matches these numbers is selected, yarn is made, and the same number of threads is woven on a loom from the 50s to create the finest denim.
By making this denim, we were able to gain a deeper understanding of the characteristics of the XX denim of that time, as well as the differences between it and modern denim, such as the quality of the thread and the texture of the fabric.
If I were to talk about one specific step that I haven't mentioned in the mission of recreating XX, it would be the "color."
In order to recreate the vintage-like color and texture of denim woven under less advanced spinning techniques and poorer yarn quality than today,
The result is the LAST RESORT black tag.
The thread was made using the same raw cotton as the white tag (warp: EMOT, weft: California Pima), but the warp threads were specially crafted to make the neps more likely to fly out, creating a more pronounced unevenness.
By creating strong unevenness, you can create a long vertical fade.
When I looked at the vintage items I was targeting, the dullness of the weft thread was quite noticeable. The color of the cotton at that time looked more like a yellowed ecru than white.
We decided to create the yarn to achieve the desired depth of color, then dye it and weave the fabric.
By changing to a different dyeing factory than the white tag, the colors are completely different.
The height of the rope and the dyeing process vary depending on the dyeing factory, so the color also changes.

Due to this difference in manufacturing process, the weight of the fabric has also changed - the white tag is 14OZ and the black tag is 15OZ.
The denim was dyed eight times to create a deep, dark blue color. We decided to use this denim with its deep color and unevenness as the model with a more heritage feel, the "LASTRESORT DENIM Black Tag".
Going forward, this denim will be used to tailor denim clothing from models prior to the 40s.
It has a wilder look and feel to the fabric, but after wearing it for two days, the soft feel of the white tag will come forward and it will transform into a smooth fit that glides on effortlessly without any stress.