JELADO Manufacturing ~Vintage Wool~ Vol.3 "Vintage wool revived in modern times"

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~ Part 3: "Sewing" is finally ready for delivery! ~

 

 

If American Vintage is the "product of chance born of the times," then JELADO's products are "an obsession with making chance a necessity." Because of their respect for American Vintage, which can be called a natural monument remaining on Earth, they find inevitability even in the coincidences of the past, and they single-mindedly pursue the quality of "modern products" rather than "simple imitation."

 

That's why JELADO's creations sometimes have specifications that would not exist in AMERICAN VINTAGE. The blankets featured in this project have a perfect example of this, with their pattern matching that is so precise it's almost naive. No matter how physically difficult it may be, they find meaning in giving it form, and they want end users living in the present to feel the high quality of their "modern" products. You can see their thoughts in this project.

 

Well, this is the third installment of our series, and we will be taking a look at how the fabric that went through the "STEP.3 Press" process in our previous interview is cut and sewn into a finished product. Our destination is Alpha Co., Ltd., which handles cutting and sewing for a number of internationally acclaimed brands. We will bring you the final chapter of the relay of pride spun by Japan's leading professionals in Bishu, one of the world's three largest woolen textile production areas.

 

 

 

STEP 9 "Matching the pattern"

The first thing that happens when the finished fabric arrives at Alpha, which handles cutting and sewing, is to determine how to cut out the parts that will make up a product from the fabric. The task of placing patterns on the fabric may seem simple at first glance, but it is extremely difficult because the patterns must be placed so that they match up perfectly when the product is finished. Just imagining it is daunting when you have to simultaneously visualize the complex three-dimensional sewing image and the two-dimensional cutting image in your head and consider how to cut out the parts while taking the pattern into account.

 

"It's also important to use up all the precious fabric without waste."

"Basically, we place the larger parts of the pattern first, then we place the smaller parts to match the pattern placement, but in the case of fabrics like this with a large design pitch, if we don't place the pattern properly, a huge amount of fabric will be wasted, so that's the difficult part," says craftsman Yonekura. Also, since even the slightest misalignment poses a big risk to the later processes, they always irradiate the laser to prevent misalignment, but it is an extremely difficult task to work while also taking into account the twisting of the fabric.

 

 

 

STEP.10 "Preparation for cutting"

Once the layout of the outline of the pattern has been decided, the next step is the cutting process. When the paper with the pattern transferred onto it is layered on top of the fabric, a major obstacle awaits the craftsman here as well, which causes problems for the craftsman. Not only does each roll of fabric have different twists, but the tension of the weave can also vary depending on the location within a single roll, so the position of the paper must be adjusted each time.

 

This fact means that, for example, if you cut twice, there will be a very slight difference in the cut position of the pattern between the first and second cuts, so if the parts cut in the first cut and the parts cut in the second cut are mixed together when sewing, the pattern will not match up perfectly at the end. In other words, it is time-consuming to have to give matching numbers to all the parts cut in one go and sew only that set.

 

Furthermore, in the case of thin fabrics that do not need to be pattern matched, dozens or even hundreds of pieces of fabric can be layered and cut all at once, whereas thick woollen fabrics, which have large design pitches and tend to vary in degree of twist depending on the part and the climate, have very few layers when cut, making it extremely inefficient. Therefore, before cutting, the fabric is divided into three parts to make it easier to adjust for misalignment.

 

 

 

"It's a hassle. Strangely enough, I've never thought of it that way."

"People around me often tell me that it must be hard to make a time-consuming product like this in the same way over and over again. However, we don't actually think of these processes as repetitive work. This is because to us, what may seem like the same work at first glance can be completely different if just one setting, such as the condition of the fabric, is different, and it is a kind of stimulating experience. I think it is the pride in our work that makes us feel that way," said Yonekura.

 

 

STEP 11 "Cutting"

Because of the thickness of the fabric and the need for delicate work that takes into account the pattern, the cutting process requires only a freehand type of cutting machine. The cut lines drawn in a single stroke are truly miraculous, with exquisite curves and intricately detailed areas that look as if they were cut by machine. Although the work is done efficiently, the maximum amount that can be cut in a day is naturally limited to a few jackets, as the fabric must be checked and adjusted for misalignment every time a section is cut.

 

 

 

No matter how efficiently you cut, if you prioritize matching the pattern when the product is completed, you will inevitably end up with fabric scraps. If you look at the amount of scraps in the photo below, you can see how difficult it is to stick to your specifications.

 

 

STEP.12 "Sewing"

Once the cutting is complete, it's time to move on to the sewing process. The thickness of the fabric and the matching of patterns are what make this process so difficult for the craftsmen. When it comes to sewing, it goes without saying that the sewing machine cannot run at a high speed due to the durability of the needles and threads, but the tension on the front and back of the fabric changes, so the craftsmen have to gradually correct the three-dimensional misalignment, sometimes hitting the fabric with a hammer as they go along.

 

 

When it comes to matching patterns, the most difficult part is where multiple layers of fabric overlap, such as pockets. If you run the sewing machine prioritizing only the pattern, the pocket may end up in a slightly different position than the specifications, and conversely, if you proceed with the work while only looking at the specifications, the pattern may not match properly due to slight wrinkles in the fabric. However, the reason neither of these issues is noticeable in the actual delivered product is because the craftsman's intuition makes fine adjustments that cannot be explained by quantitative measurements.

 

"The specifications are merely a guide. The planner's intent is our blueprint."

"For example, we cut the fabric just a few millimeters larger than the pattern to ensure an optimal seam allowance that takes into account the thickness of the fabric, or even though the specifications say to finish the hem with a Lewis hemming, we finish it with a back-seam hemming. In our work, we often end up doing work that is surprisingly different from the specifications," says Yonekura.

"Without fear of being misunderstood, the people who plan products are professionals in planning, not professionals in cutting and sewing. We believe that it is our duty to respond to their 'planning professionalism' with all our might as 'cutting and sewing professionals.' That is why, after understanding the intent of the specifications, if we feel that the instructions are not the best, we must clearly communicate that. I think that's what professionals do."

 

 

STEP.13 "Inspection"

Once the sewing is complete, the products are checked to make sure there are no lint or needles remaining before being delivered. From spinning to inspection, each and every item is carefully produced by hand. If you have the opportunity to pick up one of these products, we hope you will think about the production background that we have introduced in this series of interviews.

 

 

lastly……

The reality is that it is not one big piece of science and technology that makes things, but small, outstanding human skills that support manufacturing. There are certainly many cases in the world where it is more efficient and accurate for machines to replace humans in performing tasks. However, in the field of "culture," such as fashion, which cannot be measured quantitatively, it is difficult to imagine a future in which machines surpass human technology. This is because, when weighing the enormous human, financial, and time costs of developing a machine that surpasses humans in this field against the possibility of human production and transmission of technology in the meantime, the decision is clear.

 

However, in Bishu, the number of factories with the technical capabilities introduced in this project is decreasing. It's a sad reality. Someday in the near future, we may come to a time when we can't get our hands on the products introduced here, just like American Vintage...

 

First of all, it is important to know this fact. I think that this is important for people who are in contact with "culture." That's what I felt during the interview.

 

<Text by Kobo Tagata, Photos by Sawada Seiji>

 

This jacket is made from revived vintage wool.CLICK HERE