JELADO Manufacturing ~Vintage Denim~ Vol.4 "The DNA of 501XX Woven with Romance and Science"
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～“Kuro-Tagu” (Black Tag). Heading to Production～
Several months have passed since the discussion between Mr. Muroi, a key person in the domestic denim industry, and Goto of JELADO.
(For their discussion, click here)
This time, we were able to accompany the dyeing process of the new model of "LAST RESORT" denim fabric, commonly known as "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag), so we will introduce the process here.
First, let's clarify the difference between "LAST RESORT", commonly known as "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag), used in the 301XX released in September 2020, and the "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag) to be newly produced.
The clear difference between the two fabrics lies in the era of the 501XX on which they are based. The "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag) is based on the 1950s model, often called the "late '47 model". The "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag) is based on the 1940s model, often called the "early '47 model".
Both are created by disassembling and analyzing deadstock vintage denim owned by JELADO, but the number of warp and weft threads and the weave are the same as before. The specific differences between the two models are in spinning (i.e., the yarn) and dyeing.
(For the manufacturing process of "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag), click here)
Although the details of the spinning process will be omitted this time, to express "roughness" more strongly than before, the unevenness of the warp threads has been further emphasized, and the pre-dyeing processing of the yarn has been intentionally omitted.
And then, dyeing. The "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag) used in the 301XX had a dyeing process designed with good fading and speed in mind, but this time, under the guideline of more clearly bringing out the deep, blackish blue unique to vintage denim, the dyeing will be done at a different factory.
Below, we trace the process.
STEP.1 "Warping"
This is the process of taking "cheese" (yarn packages) delivered from the spinning factory and forming them into rope-like bundles of approximately 500 threads. The thread setting is done manually, and if a thread breaks, it is handled manually. It is said that about three years of training are required to master this work.
Incidentally, the "hot washing" process, which involved washing the yarn during the production of "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag), has been intentionally omitted. By intentionally skipping this pre-dyeing process, which is originally meant to stabilize dyeing, they aim to express the desired roughness of "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag).
STEP.2 "Dyeing"
The rope-like bundles of yarn then go into the dyeing process. As you can see from the photos below, the yarn is repeatedly dipped in indigo dye, gradually oxidizing and turning a deeper blue.
The number of times the yarn is dipped in the liquid, the height of the dyeing machine to promote yarn oxidation, and the temperature of the indigo liquid are all trade secrets. I can only mention here that because the "scouring" process was omitted this time, and to strengthen the unevenness of the yarn, the number of twists was increased, making it difficult for the yarn to absorb color, which resulted in more dips in the indigo liquid than usual.
The cross-section of the dyed yarn is as follows. As a result of precise calculations by skilled artisans, they have succeeded in creating a core-white effect without completely dyeing the core.
STEP.3 "Splitting"
After dyeing, the yarn undergoes a process called "splitting" and is temporarily wound onto beams (giant bobbins). This equalizes the tension of the yarn to some extent, improving the accuracy and efficiency of subsequent processes.
STEP.4 "Sizing"
This is the "sizing" process, where glue is applied to the warp threads to give them smoothness before they are put on the loom. At this stage, the white threads on both sides, characteristic of selvedge denim, are also glued simultaneously. Incidentally, the distinctive scent of denim fabric comes from this process.
Below are the warp threads after sizing. Even through the photos, you can see that they have gained crispness and body.
Summary
The dyed yarn, like the "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag) of "LAST RESORT," proceeds to the weaving process on a Toyoda Automatic Loom "G3 type" shuttle loom.
And here is the completed "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag) of "LAST RESORT". Can you see that the fabric surface has more fluff, the back has more slubs, and the blue color is deeper than the "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag)?
The 301XX meticulously reproduced from the deadstock 501XX "late '47 model" owned by JELADO using "Shiro-Tagu" (White Tag) of "LAST RESORT". And the "301E XX" which reproduces the "early '47 model" using "Kuro-Tagu" (Black Tag).
The former is a denim with a smart appearance that commits to beauty and considers the speed of fading. The latter is a denim with a rougher appearance that pursues the unique texture of vintage even deeper.
Furthermore, for the "301XX", patterns were taken from larger size items, resulting in a modern silhouette with a deep rise. In contrast, for the "301E XX", patterns could be extracted from a 32-inch item, so the rise will be shallower, resulting in a clean silhouette.
The release of "301E XX" is scheduled for October 2022.
Stay tuned!!
＜Text / Kobo Tagata Photos / Seiji Sawada＞
JELADO Original Denim Line Last Resort products are here