〜Twisting of Denim Pants〜

Good evening. This is Uemura from JELADO WEST.

Today's blog will be about denim fabric.

〜Our Original Fabric〜

『LASTRESORT』

We cut and analyze vintage pieces.

Focusing on "Vintage" in terms of cotton, looms, and dyeing methods,

we pursue the texture of the fabric and how it ages over time.

This fabric, packed with JELADO'sこだわり (particularity),

is "LASTRESORT."

Among the Last Resort series, the popular item is

the "5-pocket denim"

white tag & black tag series.

Currently, the white tag includes

JELADO Age of Longing 301XX Denim Pants【JP94301】

These three models are available.

And for the black tag,

JELADO Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX Denim Pants【JP94301E】

Both white tag and black tag are based on "LEVI'S."

This means they are "right-hand twill" denim.

In this blog, I will talk about "denim twill and its characteristics."

 

① Denim is twill weave

Levi's denim material has been based on "3/1 right-hand twill" since the late 1800s.

This refers to a weaving structure where "three warp threads appear on the surface and one goes underneath."

Before that, older denim materials used "2/1 right-hand twill,"

but Levi's is said to have adopted the 3/1 right-hand twill structure with thicker warp and weft threads in pursuit of a more durable fabric.

 

② What is twill?
Twill refers to diagonal weave lines.

These diagonal lines, a characteristic of denim fabric, are called "twill lines" and come in two types:

right-hand twill (sloping up to the right) and left-hand twill (sloping up to the left).

In vintage denim like Levi's, right-hand twill is predominant.
Also, until around the 1950s, sanforization (shrink-proofing) was not performed,

and the fabric was used in its unfinished state, called "kibata" (loom-state fabric).

 

③ How to distinguish twill directions
When looking at denim fabric, if the diagonal lines run '///', it is 'left-hand twill'.

If they run '///', it is 'right-hand twill'.

Please check the images of the twill lines.

(301XX left outseam)

(Near the right back pocket of 301XX)

④What changes with different twill directions?

The change in twill direction results in differences in:

・Fading and texture ・How it twists

For denim fabric that focuses on vintage denim,

the "twill direction" is a very important point.

⑤About twisting

The most important point in this blog is this part.

 

The denim sold in stores and online

has already been one-washed.

Therefore, the product has shrunk, and regarding twisting,

individual differences (larger or smaller twists) can be seen.

There is a reason why the fabric twists.

・Why does it twist?

Twisted cotton yarn is used,

and when this twist and the weave direction combine,

the fabric rotates when washed, causing twisting.

As mentioned above,

due to the nature of the fabric, there are "individual differences" (in the degree of twisting),

but because it has been one-washed, it will always be visible.

・What kind of twist specifically?

JELADO's white tag and black tag focus on

Vintage LEVI'S.

So, it is "right-hand twill" denim.

301XX Front part

Look at the outseam of the left leg.

You can see from the image that it is twisting inwards.

The image above is a zoomed-in view of the left leg.

You can see the twist much more clearly.

Since the right leg twists outwards,

the inseam will appear at the front.

Regarding this "twist," we sometimes receive questions like, "Is this a defect?"

However, Last Resort white tag & black tag are based on LEVI'S XX fabric,

and due to the nature of the fabric, a certain degree of natural twist occurs.

Therefore, we appreciate your understanding that this phenomenon is part of the vintage character intended by our brand.

Today's blog turned out to be a bit long,

but I hope it can be of some help regarding points that many people might have questions about.

 

～JELADO is looking for STAFF at both stores～

We are looking for staff to work with us.

We would like to work with people who have a strong interest in fashion,

who are interested in excellent traditional techniques and materials,

and who can find enjoyment in their work independently.

In particular, we welcome those who can think with us about what we can do to deliver our proposed products to more people.

Please check the

Recruitment Page

for job openings and application methods.

～Representative Goto featured on Machikado CH～

On March 24th (Monday) at 6 PM, on Machikado CH's YouTube channel,

JELADO's representative, Goto, was featured.

He talked about JELADO's craftsmanship,

and his passionate thoughts and commitment to denim.

Because it's based on vintage,

we capture the unique characteristics of each piece and incorporate them into the design.

We hope that as many customers as possible

will learn about JELADO's LAST RESORT denim.

Please watch the YouTube video.

Please watch the video here.

～JELADO Staff Coordinates～

As a new project,

staff coordinates are now available

online.

We hope you find each staff member's styling

helpful as a reference. Thank you.

Please check them out here.

～Official LINE Account～

JELADO shares information with customers via Instagram and blogs,

but we have also opened an official LINE account

to send information to as many customers as possible.

If you haven't already added us as a friend,

please do so.

～Also featured on Higashino Denim～

 

Higashino-san and Shoji-san's YouTube channel

"Higashino Denim" introduced our blue tag series.

Please check out this video as well.

You can watch Higashino Denim's video here.

～About hemming services for items brought in～

Both JELADO stores used to offer hemming services for 'other brands' denim' when brought to our stores. However, due to the increased number of hemming requests for items purchased in-store or online, we are currently unable to offer 'hemming services for other brands' items brought in'. We appreciate your understanding.

・Hemming services for 'JELADO products purchased from an authorized dealer' will be charged.

*We will continue to offer hemming services for JELADO products purchased directly from JELADO.

～Popular Staff Best Buy Series～

Thank you for waiting, everyone!

'JELADO Staff Best Buy!'

This time, it's the best buys of the second half of the year, and just like the first half, each staff member's unique personality shines through.

Please take a look for reference.

Watch the Staff Best Buy video here.

～This Week's New Video～

This week's new video is here.

With the theme, "How about this for your aging companion?", we asked FRAGRANCE CAFE to create an original scent inspired by JELADO.

Many of our customers are particular about aging, so when they start to notice an odor, a simple spritz is all it takes to solve the problem.

We introduce a fragrance that can be used not only for denim but also indoors, so please take a look.

Watch the new video here.