〜Vintage Blog〜

 

Good evening. This is Uemura from WEST.

 

Today is the first Vintage Blog in a while.

This time, we'll be talking about Ayame.

 

If you are watching our YouTube channel,

You may already be wondering about this.

 

"Last Resort Horizontal Expansion"

 *We are discussing the details here, so please take a look.

Click here for videoFrom here.

 

 

Today's blog is about this.

Thank you for your continued support.

 

Before explaining twill, let's start with a talk about twisting the thread.

 

Generally, yarn twist is left-handed (Z-twist).

 

In the case of double yarn,

It is a left twist (Z twist) + right twist (S twist)

As mentioned earlier, single yarns are generally left-twisted.

Well, today's blog starts here.

 

 The three biggest denim brands in America are...

 

・LEVI'S (right twill)

・Lee (left)

・Wranglar (left twill → broken denim)

 

But the main focus of today's blog is...

 

 

The answer is "Lee."

 

I will briefly explain its history.

 

- Founded in 1889 in Salina, Kansas.

*Actually, it was a food and miscellaneous goods wholesale company.

 

・1911: Workwear business begins at our own factory.

 

1913: As part of the U.S. Army uniform

　Union All, the so-called "ALL IN ONE"

　It was adopted and the brand name quickly became well known.

 

In 1924, Lee introduced the 5-pocket denim

　Cowboy released. The denim is made by LEVI'S.

   Produced in "left twill" as opposed to "right twill".

 

・1926: Earlier than any other brand,

　It features a zipper fly.

 

So, that was a rough summary of Lee's history.

We only talked a little bit.

 

With the release of Cowboy in 1924,

They were differentiated into Levi's with right-hand twill and Lee with left-hand twill.

 

The Levi's of that time would have been 1922/501XX.

 

~Explanation of 1922/501XX~

Supply was changed from Amoskeag to Corn Mills,

The main details are a departure from the previous waist overalls,

This is the first model to feature belt loops.

Cinch back is included.

 

Returning to the main topic, what kind of differentiation does right and left twill create?

That is what I mean...

 

Right twill (LEVI'S)

 

 

When weaving with a left-handed thread, the yarn twist is

The yarn is woven in the opposite direction. This creates tension on the threads,

This causes the fabric to become dense, resulting in unevenness in the fabric.

As for how the color fades, the convex parts are easily rubbed,

The color fades in a way called "dot fading."

 

In the case of Lee

 

 

The fabric is woven in the same direction as the yarn twist, making it soft to the touch and comfortable to wear.

In addition, the right twill weaves in the opposite direction, so the fabric has some unevenness.

In left twill, the fabric is woven in the same direction, so it lies flat.

In other words, the right twill fabric rubs against the surface instead of against the points.

This creates a clear vertical drop.

This fading of color is called "line fading."

 

Among those who like vintage, there are those who like the classic LEVI'S.

People are divided on Lee's color fading and ease of wear.

 

In that sense, the difference in the twill pattern is

I think this is an important point when it comes to denim.

 

 

 

It started with a white tag and then became a black tag,

I'm looking forward to seeing what tag the next Last Resort will be.

 

 

Last Resort denim started with the original white tag.

To analyze the XX fabric of the 50s,

He took some deadstock denim from that time and cut it with scissors.

It was scientifically analyzed to be as close as possible to the XX fabric.

We created our original fabric, LAST RESORT denim, from scratch. 

 

*For more details, please see Youtube.

Episode 1

Episode 2

Episode 3

 

Here are the three original white tag items.

 

JELADO Age of Longing 301XX [JP94301]

JELADO Universal Slim 312ZXX [JP94312]

JELADO 55Denim 55XX [JP313]

The second product to be released is the black tag.

JELADO Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX [JP94301E]

*The main sizes are currently out of stock at both JELADO stores and online.

Once reservations begin, we will post it on our BLOG and on the official website of both stores.

Announcement from InstagramWe will do our best to help you.

 

 

Last Resort "Horizontal Deployment" = Left Twill Denim

 

What is Last Resort that we have developed so far?

The completely different new denim will be held at the end of September,

 

"2024SS Preview"

 

This will be the unveiling from, so please wait a little longer.

 

【event information】

JELADO & The 2 Monkeys 

2023 Autumn & Winter Exhibition

Available at authorized JELADO and The 2 Monkeys dealers nationwide

You can see the autumn/winter samples early.

New stores may be added, so

At that time, we will provide further information on our blog and social media.

 

 

 

7/22(Sat)7/23(Sun)

Kobe, Hyogo Prefecture FLISCO by Tiger's Brothers
650-0012-2 Kitanagasatsudouri, Chuo-ku, Kobe City, Hyogo Prefecture, 31-48
tel: 078-332-2427

 

～This week's new videos are here～

This time it's the star of summer!!

Introducing short sleeve shirts!

A must-have for JELADO's summer

Shirts based on various vintage designs are released every year!

We have new shirts in stock this year that will make the hot summer even hotter!!

Please check it out!!!

This week's video is here