Reservations are starting one after another! /FlagshipStore

2022 January 8

Good evening!

Thank you very much for visiting us today.

There will be many items available for pre-order starting tomorrow, so don't miss out!!

301XX
312XX
313XX
406XX
41Khaki
301EXX←New Release
407EXX←New Release

T2Monkeys Sportif small quantity restocked!

Today we will talk about the fabric (Last Resort Black Tag) used in 301E & 407E.

～LASTRESORT BLACK TAG～

Fabric description

Two years ago, to mark the 2th anniversary of the launch of JELADO, we risked our company's future by creating LAST RESORT DENIM.
The Dead Stock from that time was dismantled, and an analysis agency analyzed the cotton fiber length, thread thickness, number of twists, and number of threads in the fabric, from the data of two Dead Stock from similar years.
Raw cotton that matches these numbers is selected, yarn is made, and the same number of threads is woven on a loom from the 50s to create the finest denim.
By making this denim, we were able to gain a deeper understanding of the characteristics of the XX denim of that time, as well as the differences between it and modern denim, such as the quality of the thread and the texture of the fabric.
If I were to talk about one specific step that I haven't mentioned in the mission of recreating XX, it would be the "color."
The LAST RESORT black tag was created to give the denim a vintage look and to reproduce the texture and color of denim that was woven under conditions when spinning technology was less advanced than it is today and the quality of the thread was worse than it is today.
The thread was made using the same raw cotton as the white tag (warp: EMOT, weft: California Pima), but the warp threads were specially crafted to make the neps more likely to fly out, creating a more pronounced unevenness.
By creating strong unevenness, you can create a long vertical fade.
When we looked at the vintage items we were targeting, we noticed that the dullness of the weft color was noticeable.
The color of the cotton at that time looked more like a yellowed ecru than white.
We decided to create the yarn to achieve the desired depth of color, then dye it and weave the fabric.
Even when it comes to dyeing, we have changed the factory this time, which has resulted in a completely different color than the white tag.
The height of the rope and the dyeing process vary depending on the dyeing factory, so the color also changes.
The dyeing process this time involves a process called refining, which is a process in which fats, impurities, processing agents, and dirt are removed from the fibers before dyeing, improving the quality of the fibers. By skipping this step, we were able to express the colors and roughness of the fabric from that time.
Due to this difference in manufacturing process, the weight of the fabric has also changed - the white tag is 14OZ and the black tag is 15OZ.
And by dyeing the fabric deeply, eight times, we were able to create a denim with a deep, strong blue hue.
We decided to use this denim with its deep color and wild unevenness as the "LASTRESORT DENIM Black Tag" model, which has a more heritage feel.
In the future, this denim will be used to make denim clothing from models before the 40s.
It has a wilder look and feel, but after wearing it for two days, the soft feel of the white tag will come to the forefront and it will transform into a smooth, comfortable garment that glides on effortlessly without any stress.

In a nutshell
The cotton used is the same as the white tag (regular Last Resort), but there are differences in the thread washing process and dyeing, which results in differences in color fading.
The comfort of the shoes has not been compromised as before!

From September 9st, items from the Autumn/Winter collection will be uploaded onto the web one after another, so don't miss out!

Kumazaki

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