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August 31, 2022

Good evening!

Thank you for visiting us today.

Many items will be available for reservation starting tomorrow, so don't miss out!

301XX
312XX
313XX
406XX
41Khaki
301EXX ← New
407EXX ← New

T2Monkeys Sportif少量再入荷！

Today, let's talk about the fabric (Last Resort Black Tag) used for 301E and 407E.

～LASTRESORT BLACK TAG～

Fabric description

Two years ago, to mark JELADO's 15th anniversary, we risked the company's fate to create LAST RESORT DENIM.
We dismantled dead stock from that era and, using a certain analytical institution, meticulously measured cotton fiber length, thread thickness, twist count, and weave density, drawing data from two dead stock pieces of similar age.
We then selected raw cotton that matched these values, spun the yarn, and wove it with the same density on a 1950s loom, creating the ultimate denim.
By creating this denim, we gained a deep understanding of the characteristics of XX denim from that time, the quality of the yarn, the fabric texture, and how it differs from modern denim.
In our mission to reproduce XX denim, if there's one clear process we intentionally haven't touched upon, it's the "color."
The LAST RESORT Black Tag was created to reproduce the vintage-like color and the texture and hue of denim woven under less developed spinning technology and lower quality yarn conditions than today.
We used the same raw cotton as the white tag (warp EMOT, weft California Pima) to create the yarn, but we specially processed the warp yarn to make naps more prominent and enhance the unevenness.
By emphasizing unevenness, the vertical fading can be prolonged.
When we examined the target vintage denim, we noticed a dullness in the color of the weft yarn.
The cotton color at the time looked more like yellowish ecru than pure white.
We decided to create the yarn, dye it, and then weave the fabric to capture this depth of color.
This time, by changing the dyeing factory, the color is completely different from the white tag.
The height of the rope and the dyeing process vary by factory, resulting in different color expressions.
In this dyeing process, we omitted the scouring (seiren) step, which is a treatment to remove fats, impurities, processing agents, and dirt from the fibers before dyeing to improve their quality. By omitting this step, we reproduced the color and roughness of the fabric from that era.
And due to this difference in process, the white tag is 14OZ and the black tag is 15OZ, resulting in a change in fabric weight.
Furthermore, by intentionally dyeing it deeply 8 times, we achieved a denim with a richer, deeper blue.
We decided to use this denim, with its deep color and wild, highly uneven texture, as the "LASTRESORT DENIM Black Tag" for models seeking a more heritage feel.
Going forward, denim using this fabric will be used for denim wear models from before the 1940s.
While it has a wilder appearance and fabric touch, after just two days of wear, it transforms into a soft, smooth, and comfortable feel, similar to the white tag, without any stress.

In summary:
The cotton used is the same as the white tag (regular Last Resort), but there are differences in the seiren process of the yarn and dyeing, which creates differences in fading.
However, the comfort of wear has not been compromised!

Starting September 1st, autumn/winter collection items will be continuously uploaded to the WEB, so don't miss out!

Kumazaki

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