506XX (Part 2)

October 28, 2022

Moving right along,

I'd like to start the middle part of the 506XX series.

The 506XX from 1927?? that concluded the first part

saw changes in details from unbranded buttons to buttons with the company name,

and from no flap to a flap.

The next model is this...

1933-35 506XX

This is the 1933-35 506XX model, which features an NRA tag on the leather patch.

The NRA was a government agency established in the U.S. in 1933, and NRA tags were only attached for three years, until 1935.

By this era, the flaps were no longer rounded.

Also, this era marks the last of the small front buttons.

*A note here:

Due to the small number of existing models with these small buttons, released during the eight-year period from the 1927 model with flaps to these 1933-35 models, they are rarely seen in stores.

These jackets typically change hands between collectors or are released as consigned items in auctions or vintage clothing stores.

Naturally, the current market price is in the millions of yen.

The value of the 506XX from before 1937, which lacks the red tab, is increasing even as you read this blog.

This is no exaggeration...

And finally, this era...

A 506XX model related to the black tag 407EXX will appear.

Before we delve into this model, if you haven't read this blog yet,

I highly recommend you do.

The Story of LEVI'S Red Tab and a Woman Employee

It's relevant to the next model,

so even if you've read it once, please read it again...

Now, introducing the 1937 506XX.

As stated in the reference materials, the red tab was first attached to jackets on July 1, 1937.

*The red tab was attached to overalls on September 1, 1936.

You can see the content if you view this image using Google Translate's camera input.

And there are actually differences in the leather patch as well.

The image above shows the leather patch from before '37.

The image below shows the leather patch from '37 onwards.

It is said that the word "SIZE" next to "LOT"

was standardized from this 1937 model to the leather patches

attached to jeans.

And unlike the 1933-35 model, the front buttons are larger.

There was also a change in this detail.

The top is a small button (1933-35).

The bottom is a front button from 1937 onwards.

The size is completely different...

The price of a 506XX needle-back cinch

increases significantly if it has good color retention,

is in good condition, and is a large size.

Such items fetch millions of yen.

The recent surge in denim prices

will likely continue!!

Now, finally, I will introduce

the last model of the middle part.

We now move on to the S506XX, commonly known as the "War Model," which is currently the most expensive and popular LEVI'S jacket.

Takeshi Kusanagi and Okawa from "Nibun no Go" passionately discussed the S506XX on the "Ametalk!!" segment "Jeans Lovers Comedians."

The S506XX underwent significant detail changes due to material control directives in the United States.

This is a notice sent by LEVI'S

to various retailers.

The content states that no more than four front buttons should be attached.

Therefore, the 506XX, which had five front buttons, was changed to four in the S506XX.

However, the document did not explicitly mention removing the iron laurel buttons or the flaps, which are characteristics of the wartime model. Since LEVI'S referred to the 506XX as a denim blouse, it is believed that the pocket flaps were removed in accordance with the regulations for WORK SHIRTs.

However, there are early and late versions of the wartime model.

Among the S506XX models produced immediately after material controls were implemented, some feature buttons with the company name instead of laurel buttons. As there were no regulations regarding buttons, it is believed that these company-branded buttons were used for a very brief period.