506XX (Part 1)

October 27, 2022

~407EXX Sales Soon~

So this time, I'd like to delve into the history of the 506XX, which was the base model for JELADO's 407EXX.

JELADO's 407EXX

Since it will be quite long, I plan to divide it into a three-part series: Part 1, Part 2, and Part 3.

Thank you all for your cooperation.

Now, do you know when the "1st" type (of denim jacket) first appeared?

Actually, it is said to be around 1890.

Around 1870, LEVI'S produced denim jackets (called blouses at the time) with triple pleats and riveted pockets on both sides.

This is probably the origin of the denim jacket.

In 1890, denim with the 501 lot number first appeared. It is said that jackets were probably produced around the same time as these 501s.

They had double pleats and the pocket was located on the left side of the abdomen, not the left chest. Among collectors, pockets located lower than the chest are called "down pockets."

This is probably the earliest 506XX.

I have prepared some photos for your reference.

(I am using photos from my personal "LEVI'S VINTAGE DENIM JACKET" book.)

And here are some rare catalog photos.

This is a catalog from Spring/Summer 1904.

The 506XX is clearly indicated next to XX (double X).

This means that the 506XX definitely existed in Spring/Summer 1904.

First of all, it's a miracle that these catalogs were found.

Are you aware of the San Francisco earthquake that occurred in 1906?

Due to this earthquake, LEVI'S headquarters building and factory collapsed and burned down,

and almost all materials from before 1906 were also lost.

Because they can only be confirmed in physical form, such catalogs are now extremely valuable historical documents.

Next are images of the 506XX from around 1922.

The reason why this jacket is thought to be from around this period is that it uses the same rivets and unmarked buttons as the 501XX from 1922, when belt loops were adopted.

And it doesn't have a flap pocket.

(Flap pockets appeared between 1923-1928)

Furthermore, the shape of the pocket is

a round shape.

Instead of being rounded, it's a pentagon shape.

*Pentagon means a regular five-sided polygon.

Based on these points, it is judged to be from around 1922.

The pocket position is still on the abdomen, which means it's a down pocket.

This model is thought to be the last to feature down pockets.

As an aside, the 1922 506XX is said to be a jacket of which "only a few pieces probably remain in the world."

It's amazing that one of them exists in Japan.

Next is this one:

1927? 506XX

I've added a question mark because it's not certain, but the big differences in this model are the pocket position and the addition of a flap.

However, the flap is not square, but rounded, perhaps as a remnant of the past.

This document shows that the trademark was officially registered on December 4, 1928.

Therefore, from the next model onwards, the details will change from unmarked buttons to buttons with the LEVI'S company name. This concludes Part 1 of the 506XX story.

JELADO is a brand that produces items based on vintage designs,

and also carries denim products.

In order to analyze XX fabric from the 50s,

we cut open a deadstock 503BXX from the 50s

and chemically analyzed it to create our original "LAST RESORT" denim,

which is as close as possible to the XX fabric.

We will now introduce products made with this denim fabric.