~Today's Vintage Blog~

 

Good evening. This is Uemura from WEST.

Today, I'd like to start with this announcement.

 

 

 

It's finally this weekend.

JELADO & The 2Monkeys

2024SS Collection

 

The web exhibition was held last Thursday,

so customers who viewed it

should be aware of the content.

Before the preview, please review the web exhibition again

and then please come to the preview this weekend.

 

These two will also be at the event.

 

 

Our CEO, Goto

and The 2 Monkeys designer, Mr. Suzuki

 

Customers who are looking forward to seeing them,

please come and visit us. 

 

~Vintage Blog~

 

 

Today's blog is about vintage.

Before getting to the main topic, I'd like to say a few words.

 

Today's Vintage Blog

has nothing to do with the pants to be released in the 2024SS collection.

However, the James Dean part

is related to the 2024SS collection, so please pay attention to that as well.

Thank you all for today.

 

Continuing from last time, I will be talking about 'Lee'.

When it comes to Lee, it's all about '101', so I'll be talking about various things with 101 as the central theme.

 

~1924~

In this year, Lee released the 101 Cowboy,

a '5-pocket denim' as 'jeans for cowboys'.

It uses 13oz denim, which has a moderate thickness.

In the case of 5-pocket jeans, Levi's uses right-hand twill denim, while

Lee uses left-hand twill denim.

 

~1926~

In this year, earlier than their rival company LEVI'S,

they announced jeans with a zip fly.

This was the world's first zip-fly in the industry.

This led to the birth of the 101Z.

Thus, the Cowboy line became two types of pants...

the button-fly '101B' and the zip-fly '101Z'.

 

~Patch, Tag, and Top Button~

『Patch』

Lee's 5-pocket denim has a patch on the right rear pocket, similar to LEVI'S 'leather patch'.

『Hair-on-Hide Patch』

or 'Calf-Hair Patch'.

 

In 1936, a factory dedicated to jeans was established,

and along with that, the 'hair-on-hide patch' was adopted.

This patch was made by branding a cowhide with hair on it,

so that cowboys would find it familiar.

This patch disappeared before the war.

※Before 1936, it was a leather patch.

 

『Tag』

Lee's name tag is placed in the center of the inner part of the waistband on the back where the belt loops are.

 

(Center red tag/slanted e/1936~1945)

 

(Center red tag/regular e/1946~early 50s)

 

I have posted two images of the name tag called 'center red tag' seen from 1936 to early 1950s (※probably).

 

※I wrote 'probably' because

I couldn't find a clear exact transition period after researching, so I noted it.

 

The difference from the center red tag above is

the font of Lee is different.

 

The letter 'e' is slanted, a 'slanted e'.

(I used to call it a 'rolling e'.)

By the way, the slanted 'e' detail can also be seen in the white tag that predates the center red tag.

 

『Top Button』

I have compiled this into one image for clarity.

 

 

In 1943-44, as seen with LEVI'S,

due to material controls, laurel wreath buttons were used.

 

Even with jackets,

LEVI'S S506XX, despite being a wartime model,

has also been found with pre-war buttons.

I wonder if this is related to the factory?

I think, but it's truly an interesting detail.

 

Also, after the end of the war in 1946,

the top button was stamped with Cowboy→Riders. At the same time,

the name changed from 'Cowboy' to 'Riders'.

 

As mentioned above,

from 1946, this one

 

Center red tag/regular e

 

will be changed to this.

And the top button will be this one.

 

(101Z/top button)

 

 

The 101 series is famous for...

being the model James Dean loved.

 

 

 

 

 

In 1955, in 'Rebel Without a Cause',

he is also wearing Lee's 101.

The 101 series became a huge hit after this movie,

and finally, the center red tag was changed to this tag.

Before that, let me tell you just one thing.

 

~'DEEN' was also very popular last year~

In the 2024SS Collection, guess what...

 

The red DEEN will make its appearance.

 

At WEST, we actually received requests from customers.

Considering last year, I have a feeling that the red DEEN

will be in high demand.

You can see the actual item at the preview this weekend,

so please try it on.

 

Now, back to the main topic.

(Center black tag/mid-to-late 50s)

 

You can see from this image that the word 'RIDERS' is clearly written on the name tag.

Around this time, the name tag was still attached to the center of the inside of the waistband.

 

(Center black tag/60s-70s)

 

 

The difference from the center black tag is obvious: it has a ®️.

And the Waist notation is included.

The presence of this tag means that it is not attached in the middle of the inside of the waistband,

but on the left side.

If you remember the Waist notation and the tag position,

it should be easy to determine the era,

I hope you will remember it.

 

 

Regarding this 101 series,

the name tag specifications may change,

but one of the reasons for the popularity of this 101 series

is that there are no major model changes.

 

Although this blog focuses on bottoms,

it's important to note that the jackets also

don't undergo significant changes, just like the pants.

 

Therefore,

the reason why it is still a popular model

and called a masterpiece

is that "there are no major model changes."

That's probably why it has so many fans.

 

And so,

I think I was able to briefly discuss Lee's 5-pocket jeans on the Vintage Blog.

 

However, there are always new discoveries in this world.

We are also learning every day.

We will constantly update our information,

so please continue to support the Vintage Blog.

 

 

 

 

Last Resort denim started with the original white tag.

To analyze the 1950s XX fabric,

we cut into deadstock denim from that era,

scientifically analyzed it, and created the original LAST RESORT denim from scratch,

which is as close as possible to the XX fabric. 

 

※For more details, please visit Youtube.

Episode 1

Episode 2

Episode 3

 

There are three models of the original white tag.

Currently available in stores is:

JELADO Universal Slim 312ZXX Denim Pants【JP94312】

And currently available for pre-order in stores and online is:

【Pre-order item, scheduled for November arrival】JELADO Age of Longing 301XX Denim Pants【JP94301】

And although not currently available for pre-order, this is also available:

JELADO 55Denim 313XX Denim Pants【JP94313】

And as a white tag jacket, we also have this:

【Pre-order Item・Scheduled for October arrival】JELADO 55Denim Jacket 406XX Size34(XS)~40(L)【JP94406】

【Pre-order Item・Scheduled for October arrival】JELADO 55Denim Jacket 406XX Size42(XL)~44(XXL)【JP94406D】

【Pre-order Item・Scheduled for October arrival】JELADO 55Denim Jacket 406XX Big Size【JP94406DD】

And... the second Last Resort Denim black tag series, released in October 2022, is here...

 

Although pre-orders haven't started yet,

we've received great acclaim for:

JELADO Age of Longing Black tag 301EXX Denim Pants【JP94301E】

And for this jacket, we have the 1st type:

JELADO Age of Longing Black Tag 407EXX Size34(XS)~38(M) Denim JKT【JP94407E】

JELADO Age of Longing Black Tag 407EXX Size40(L)~44(XXL) Denim JKT【JP94407ED】

JELADO Age of Longing Black Tag 407EXX Denim JKT Big Size(50)【JP94407EDD】

is available.

We will announce the start of pre-orders for items not currently in stock on our blog and

official Instagram accounts of each store, so please wait a little longer.

 

One more thing...

We have opened a "VINTAGE JEANS Glossary" on JELADO's online store, interpreted in JELADO's own way,

so please take a look!!

Click here to go to the page, please take a look!!

 

 

～ LINE Official Account Opening Announcement ～

 

To deliver information to as many customers as possible,

we have opened "JELADO's Official LINE" account.

 

 

To celebrate the opening of our official LINE account,

we are offering a 500 yen OFF coupon.

 

 ・Explanation of how to use the 500 yen coupon.

 

 ① The coupon is valid until

23:59 on Monday, December 25, 2023.

 

 ② JELADO points and LINE coupons cannot

be used in conjunction with each other.

 

 ③ When using a LINE coupon,

JELADO points will not be awarded.

 

 ④ LINE coupons can be used for purchases of

10,000 yen (tax included) or more.

 

 

Please take this opportunity to add us as a friend.

Thank you.

 

～Event Information～

 

 

JELADO & The 2 Monkeys

2024 Spring & Summer Exhibition

 

24 Spring/Summer samples will be exhibited at 2 directly managed stores and authorized dealers nationwide.

This time, we will announce a new Last Resort series.

Several models of the Last Resort series are scheduled to be announced.

Please adjust your schedule and participate!

 

・9/16(Sat).9/17(Sun)

JELADO Flagship Store, Shibuya-ku, Tokyo

 

・9/23(Sat).9/24(Sun)

JELADO WEST, Osaka, Osaka Prefecture

 

・9/30(Sat).10/1(Sun)

Fresno, Kashiwa City, Chiba Prefecture

 

・10/7(Sat).10/8(Sun).10/9(Mon)

Sweet Sue, Kurashiki City, Okayama Prefecture

 

・10/14(Sat).10/15(Sun)

TACK, Higashisonogi-gun, Nagasaki Prefecture

 

・10/21(Sat).10/22(Sun)

EARTH MARKET, Tomisato City, Chiba Prefecture

 

・11/11(Sat).11/12(Sun)

D Stock, Munakata City, Fukuoka Prefecture

 

・11/18(Sat).11/19(Sun)

WOLF PACK, Osaki City, Miyagi Prefecture

 

・11/25(Sat).11/26(Sun)

UNIQUE JEAN STORE, Sapporo City, Hokkaido

 

・12/16(Sat), 12/17(Sun)

Rogues Main Store, Konan City, Shiga Prefecture

 

 ～This Week's New Video Information～

 

This time, we're explaining the fading of the white tag series, which is scheduled to arrive soon!

Revised edition!

Please check out the further evolved aging and

the diverse fading patterns!!!

 

Click here for the new video.