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JELADO USMC Loopwheel Tee [AG82221]

JELADO USMC Loopwheel Tee [AG82221]

Regular price €89,13 EUR
Regular price Sale price €89,13 EUR
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ANTIQUE GARMENTS has released the USMC LOOPWHEEL TEE.

The sewing specifications are exactly the same as those of the 40s "USMC" COTTON T-SHIRT.

It is knitted using a tubular knit hanging stitch using 14/- cotton air-spun yarn.
Unlike high-speed knitting machines such as sinkers, this fabric is made on a Wakayama hanging knitting machine which can freely adjust the texture rather than just the combination of thread count and needle gauge (unlike modern high-speed knitting machines, Wakayama hanging knitting machines can infinitely adjust the thread size to create the desired texture. This fabric is finished with a slightly tighter weave so as not to kill the tension. Cotton thread is used for the basic sewing, and silk thread is used for the bottom decoration of the collar lining (front swing thread) to add strength and stretch.


Three types of sewing machines are used. First, the plain seam (shoulder seam, sleeve seam) is a FLATLOCK, an American manufacturer, and this seam is the basis for the flat seam of underwear tees that has been around since the early 3th century. It was the standard sewing machine until the Union Special flat seam appeared in the 20s.

Flatlock stitching has sharper edges than US flat seams (the seam surface is flatter and stronger), and there are very few sewing machines that are still in operation (the maintenance and operation are special, so there are very few factories that operate it), so it is a special type of sewing.


Next is the double-sided decorative twin-needle lapel sewing machine (collar binder), UNOINSPECIAL 52800, a semi-automatic oil-lubricated high-speed sewing machine released by UNOINSPECIAL in the late 1930s. By placing the bow (the arm that moves the needle bar) inside the main body and fixing both axes, this sewing machine reduced vibration and increased speed.

The stitching is done with a flat two-needle double-sided decoration, with the underside of the double-folded wrapper collar (plain jersey), which is common in undergarments, exposed on the outside. This sewing method allows the collar to be made thinner and significantly reduces thread breakage due to chafing.


Finally, the UNIONSPECIAL G76000 hem sewing machine has been around since the days of wool shirts. It is used to finish off folded garments, and the hem seam is distinctive and can be seen on vintage T-shirts, with an inconspicuous and stretchy seam.


This special T-shirt has been sewn using all of our vintage sewing machines (a low-productivity but comfortable garment, as the sewing methods have been streamlined through mass production, but have been returned to their original functional methods).

Size
S: Shoulder width 43cm, Body width 45cm, Length 58cm, Sleeve length 17cm
M 肩幅46cm 身幅47.5cm 着丈63cm 袖丈18cm
L 肩幅50cm 身幅51cm 着丈65.5cm 袖丈18.5cm
XL 肩幅52cm 身幅53cm 着丈66cm 袖丈19cm
XXL Shoulder width 54cm Body width 55cm Length 67cm Sleeve length 19cm

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